Paul's firm decided they needed a presence at the National School Board Association's legal conference in Boston last week. This didn't occur to anyone until about 10 days before it began, and Paul was the only one available so I called my mom: "Please, can we go?" and she said, "Why not? Your father and I can drop our whole lives and come stay at your house for five days and have your children wear us out with their adoration."
So we booked ridiculously expensive plane tickets and made loose plans for five days and four nights in Boston.
Paul was in meetings during the day, so I consulted a friend who lived in Boston and a guidebook and put together a little itinerary which made me very happy.
On Thursday the weather promised to be nice so I walked the entire Freedom Trail. We stayed at the Boston Sheraton in the Back Bay, so I hopped the T to Park Street and began the journey at Boston Common and the Massachusetts State House.
I stopped at the Park Street Church, the Granary Burying Ground and the King's Chapel & Burying Ground.
I followed the little red-brick line in the sidewalk and stopped by the Boston Latin School (now a steak house), the Old Corner Bookstore, the Old South Meeting House, and the Old State House.
I saw the site of the Boston Massacre and then Fanueil Hall. There were a lot of people lined up for a citizenship ceremony that morning, so the Hall was closed. I wasn't disappointed, though, because I think seeing that sea of hopeful faces was more moving than anything inside the Hall.
I popped into Quincy Market where I bought lunch (and should have used the bathroom, but didn't, and lived to regret the decision). I crossed the street to little Columbus Park and ate lunch overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. I picked up the trail again in the North End and took a tour of the Paul Revere House and the Old North Church.
I did pause for a moment to recite some poetry:
Listen, my children and you shall hear
Of the midnight ride of Paul Revere,
On the eighteenth of April, in Seventy-five;
Hardly a man is now alive
Who remembers that famous day and year.He said to his friend, "If the British march
By land or sea from the town to-night,
Hang a lantern aloft in the belfry arch
Of the North Church tower as a signal light,--
One if by land, and two if by sea;
And I on the opposite shore will be,
Ready to ride and spread the alarm
Through every Middlesex village and farm,
For the country folk to be up and to arm."
Then I ignored the advice of the guidebook to take a break from the Freedom Trail and pressed on to Copp's Hill Burying Ground and then trekked across the Charles River to see the USS Constitution. (I figured out what the guidebook meant as I passed many families with children who had completely melted down along the way. That last push is pretty long, and there is no convenient T stop on that side of the river so you have to walk all the way back.)
It was worth it, though: very serviceable bathrooms (!) and a terrific tour of a glorious ship. The navy servicemen and women giving the tours did a fine job of putting it into historical context.
And, now I have to admit that I did not, in fact, walk the ENTIRE Freedom Trail. I dropped out here, and just waved at the Bunker Hill memorial which I could see peeking up through some buildings.
Thursday night I took Paul back to the North End and we ate dinner in a tiny little Italian Restaurant on Fleet Street. La Summa is family run with only thirteen tables, a terrific menu and such an authentic air. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal.
On Friday I took the T across the river to Cambridge. I wandered around Harvard Square and then ventured onto campus to take a look at some of the historic buildings. Cambridge is a weird place.
Friday night we hit China Town. We picked a restaurant rather blindly and ended up at the China Pearl. The food was fine, and it was fun to see big Chinese-American families traipse up the two flights of stairs to the dragon- and Chinese-lantern bedecked dance hall/restaurant.
On Saturday I went to the Boston Museum of Fine Art and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The Gardner Museum is outstanding. The woman who founded it was quite a character and built a castle in the Fenway to showcase her very unique and varied art and artifact collection. Her will specifies that nothing can be moved, so everything is exactly as she left it. I could have spent days wandering around. I ate lunch at the Cafe G there, and ordered off the nasturtium-themed menu. What a treat.
Saturday evening Paul and I booked a Duck Tour. It was fun to get a narrated tour of all the places I'd been plus many more. The guide took us for a spin in the river, so we got a great view of the city.
On Sunday, I toyed with the idea of attending church but my spoiled Utah-Mormon sensibilities balked at the idea of a train-plus-two bus trip (yes, I know: woe). Instead we went back to Quincy Market for a bit of souvenier shopping, and then had an OUTSTANDING pizza lunch at Pizzaria Regina in the North End. All pizza will now pale in comparison, and that is my punishment for not going to church, I suppose. We stopped for cannoli at Mike's Pastry, and I may never be the same.
Our plane was that afternoon, so we headed home to "real" life with full tummies and great memories.
